06 March 2011

Lakes Basin



Rock Lake

I have the tremendous fortune of having a friend named Ben who is from Reno, Nevada. I know, I know, initially I had the same skewed visions of Reno enforced by say Betty Draper flying out there for a divorce or the sometimes funny, mostly not funny Reno 911. But when I first was given the enormous privilege of visiting Reno and Ben’s family, I understood what he was talking about. Reno itself is, as Ben’s family now mocks me for, “alright” but the mountains surrounding Reno are spectacular. Ben’s family has a tremendous love of the mountains and deserts of Nevada and it couldn’t help but spread to me. So this summer after I finished snaking my way up the spine of the Sierra Nevada’s through the underrated Sequoia National Park and the impossible to overrate but sadly packed Yosemite, I joined Ben and his father Eric, at their families Cabin near Eureka-Plumas State Park in California. Ben’s family has always treated me like I was one of their own, and given that Eric seems to be interested only in golf, exploring the outdoors, and talking a little politics, he and I were hard pressed to get along.

This is the area north of Tahoe, the area that until recently, only the locals really knew about. San Franciscans have now discovered it, and hopefully they don’t overpopulate it with strip malls in the way Tahoe. At the cabin, Ben, Eric and I relaxed, played some golf at a spectacular golf course (although Ben insists on using performance enhancing trees), and Ben and I planned a backpacking trip. I’d never backpacked before, but I had acquired an REI backpack specifically to open up the possibility. When planned a trip through the Lakes Basin area of the Plumas National Forest.

It was a good trip to say the least. We started near the old Jamison mine and gradually worked our way up the hillside. The early going with my 40-50 pound pack was surprisingly easy, although it got gradually harder as we went up in elevation. The Lakes Basin is actually two as far as I can tell, the first we worked our way up through contained several football field sized lakes of cold snow melt. The lakes themselves offered spectacular photographic subjects both black and white. It reminded me in many ways of Hatcher Pass in Alaska, but with trees.

Grass Lake

The first lake we happened on was Grass Lake (which was actually one of two or three "Grass" or "Grassy" Lakes in the area....creative naming was not a priority). Tranquil and filled with fish (we passed a pretty steady stream of fisherman on the way) we rested by this lake for a few minutes and continued on. We then wound up the side of several gorgeous Sierra granite outcroppings and reached Rock Lake (again, creative).


My esteem and love for the Sepia Forest Service Sign picture know no bounds.


Rock Lake Panorama

Rock Lake was quite pleasant and had the feel of an alpine lake as opposed to Grass Lake which felt more like a mountain pond. There was no real vegetation in the lake giving it a rainbow of blues, blue-greens, and greens that can only be appreciate by being there and only clumsily translated by color photographs. The emerald waters of Lake Tahoe, it seems, are not exclusive to Lake Tahoe. Ben had cached his backpack behind, so I ditched my increasingly heavy pack and climbed the rocks to explore the blues with my camera from a high gray granite perch.

Lone Tree At Rock Lake
1/125 Exposure
Positive Film

It was here that I discovered the manipulations you can make on lake colors with shutter speed and exposure, a process I would explore more deeply at Tamolitch Pool (blog post upcoming).


Rock Lake Waters
1/30 Exposure
Green Filter

Same waters, different exposure, different filter, different results. Not exactly and earth shattering breakthrough, but cool.

After resting for a while at Rock Lake and seeing the nearby Jamison Lake (sadly, not a drop of whiskey in sight) we made our way up to Wades Lake, which while higher than Rock Lake, had more of a meadow pond feel as well. This was the last respite before making it up to the Pacific Crest Trail which was honestly quite a struggle for me. We had climbed from about 5200 feet (already a mile high) to almost 7400 feet, and the last 500 feet or so was a real struggle for me. The contrast between me the asthmatic, slightly out of shape amateur photography and Ben, the former semi-professional soccer player was pretty apparent. Ben was a patient and encouraging coach, and eventually the trail leveled off on the ridge line, and I felt pretty damn invincible. For the stretch between the first basin and the second basin on the ridge line, I was running like an ancient Incan trail messenger, or more accurately, felt that way.

Of course we stopped briefly to recoup, and while there I got this photo.

Grass Lake (middle), Rock Lake (right), Wades Lake (left)

This photo turned out pretty well, and I snapped a few in black and white as well, but they didn't turn out as well. I wished I'd had better lighting, but a storm brought a few high clouds and supplied us with a nice cool breeze for our descent into the second basin. This is of course one of those views that a camera does such a feeble job of conveying, especially the sense of accomplishment of having gone all this way.

Feeling good because I thought we had gotten all the climbing over (which we had except for a few soul sucking hills) we descended into the Lakes Basin. These lakes were more narrow and thin, substantially larger, and now choppy due to the afternoon breeze. There was a somewhat spooky feeling of an approaching storm and after cresting the ridge, we didn't run into any people until we reached camp. It had the feel of two knights approaching a ferocious dragon in some awful fantasy film, but it was also extremely memorable: I'll never forget that feeling of isolation and togetherness at the same time the wind seemed to bring.

The changing light and the feeling that the "mountain lake" photo had been done led to substantially fewer snaps in the second basin, but the best shot was yet to come.


California's Weak Answer to Oregon's Wizard Island

And not it isn't this one, I'm just fascinated by the tenacity of the pine trees to make it out there.



Silver Lake
1/125 Exposure
Black and White

Silver Lake itself was not that impressive, but it is photogenic. I took a number of color photos here, but this is the type of shot made for that Ansel Adams Black and White style shot. I think the reason it works is lack of color in the reflection: in the color shot the only color really reflected in the blue of the sky, the trees and shrubs just look black or brown in the water. So why not just make everything black or white?

After a few hours of needless serpentine paths because of poor direction signs, we reached camp, quickly had a fire going, and some soup was made (worth the extra weight, just ask Ben about the quality of dry freeze food, or better yet Ben's dog who refused to eat it). The only thing imperfect after that day was the cloud cover which blocked the stunning Sierra stars.

The next morning, we hiked out to see a few small falls, and then met up with Eric at a nearby resort. Pepsi and Doritos have never tasted sweeter! Our journey over, we made our way to lunch at Sierra City.


Proper Wilderness Safety Dictates That You Must Eat At A Wonderful Terraced Restaurant After Backpacking

We had lunch in Sierra City at a wonderful place with fantastic fat french fries. I have to say I loved my first exposure to backpacking: its hard and grueling but fantastically rewarding. The key thing to me is water: always water. You can never have to much of it.

So thank you to Ben and his family (JoAnn is the best cook in the world for the record) for the good times.

19 August 2010

Life On Mars



Red Rock on Highway 313

For those of you who have not had the pleasure of visiting the Colorado Plateau of Utah, Arizona, and Colorado, it's not like any other place on Earth. Human beings are rather used to seeing life all around them: we look at the mountains not thinking about how we aren't just seeing the rock, but also the living things on the mountain and the result of those organisms being there. Make no mistake plants hold mountains together, and they can change a dull rock into an enduring testament of life: think of a tree seemingly fused together with a solid granite bolder.

But the Colorado Plateau is somewhat different. It's basically a giant photography studio. Here the scenic beauty is dominated by the landforms and the plants and animals have little if any impact. Which is what makes it so photographically appealing: red rock with green plants? How great is that? You don't even need to worry about filters (I was sitting dead red in terms of filter the entire trip) or shooting in black and white (a tremendous waste of red rock in my opinion). In fact the only thing you really need to worry about since everything is so still and lifeless is light.

Well, that and weather. My recent trip to Canyonlands National Park and Goblin Valley was marred somewhat by bad weather. August is the wettest and most unpredictable month weather wise, and in the desert the weather can change fast. Very fast. This is why I did not hike Little Wildhorse Canyon, a fantastic and photogenic slot canyon. While it was dry as a bone when I went to the trail head, the dark thunderclouds ahead just posed to great a risk of a flash flood.

In fact, massive merging thunderstorms prevented me from hiking there, albeit while giving me a hell of a show in terms of lightening. Lesson in photographic frustration: I stood at the viewpoint for 30 minutes snapping well over 200 pictures trying to get a shot of lightening. Nothing. Nothing even though I was snapping while lightening struck. Shutter speed was off, and too make matters worse, I was increasing the shutter speed when I should have been lowering it.

No technical details with these photos, because, well I just fooled around until I got the light right. That's what makes red country so inviting: it's easy to shoot, and everything is photogenic.


Colorado River

This photo I took just east of Moab. The Colorado River here is muddy with red soils, but unlike a lot of other rivers, mud does not make the Colorado uglier, in fact it makes it more beautiful. I took this to show the contrast between the shaded river and the sunlit river.








An experiment in perspective: cliffside view from the first angle. Step forward two feet and it looks like an aerial view.


Goblins at Goblin Valley. Actually, just one Goblin taken from different sides. These rocks are fascinating and I'm sure you could easier scour the valley trying to find the most photogenic one. Goblin Valley was one of the most lifeless and serene places I've ever been. It truly is Mars on Earth.


I was hiking early in the morning and turned just in time to see the light hit the Butte before it hit the rest of the valley. The result was two minutes to shoot this spectacular, once a day lighting situation.



The fun thing about red rock is that lowering the aperture and/or shutter speed essentially dictates whether the rock will appear dark red or a glowing orange, and in both cases it makes for great photos.


15 Second Exposure of a campfire. Accident that occurred when I was trying to shoot at night and I decided to have some fun.

16 August 2010

Sierra Nevada National Parks



Last week I had the opportunity to go to Sequoia National Park and Yosemite National Park. It was a lot of fun for the most part. I really enjoyed Sequoia, particularly Generals Highway, a winding, climbing road that takes you from a hot Mediterranean like hills to cool, fern covered forest higher in elevation, to dryer forests dominated by Sequoias. Sequoia is also a park with a huge back country and relatively small front country, so there's plenty of exploring to be done.

Yosemite is awe-inspiring but I must say that it is just impossibly busy in the summertime: I did some rough mental math and the density of the Yosemite Valley on a summer weekend is roughly the same as that of a mid-sized city. It was difficult to get shots without people in them and I didn't even stop anywhere in the actual Yosemite Valley outside of Bridal Veil Falls because it was so busy, although I stopped more frequently over Tioga Pass.

Photography wise, at both Sequoia and Yosemite, the conditions were less than ideal because of a slight haze: some of it from forest fires, and some of it, like most of California, I'm sure was from smog. And lots of tourists.

It's been a while, and I took a lot of shots, so I'm a bit light on the technical side this post.

Anyway....some shots:

Pano From Washburn Point

This is a decent shot through the haze and the obvious photo seam on the right side, but that just goes to show how spectacular the scenery in Yosemite is.



Pano From Glacier Point

This shot is a bit better, but notice the haze still surrounding Half Dome and the deeper pockets of air.



Tioga Pass Panos

I like these two panoramas taken over Tioga Pass (unfortunately I don't know what specific geographic features/mountains they are) and in them I'm kind of channeling Ansel Adams. The Sierra Nevada lend themselves well to black and white, although you lose the contrast between the green trees and the gray rock when you go to black and white.


General Sherman Pano

Increasingly I'm getting the hang of using panos to get full pictures of tall objects, and General Sherman, the largest tree on Earth, was perfect for this. It's impossible to fully appreciate the size from this picture, but it's better than just a one click looking up photo.



Moro Rock Through The Trees

Instantly this made me think of the opening of Raiders of the Lost Ark. Moro Rock dominates the view from Generals Highway as you enter Sequoia, and when you get to it, it's an easy climb: kind of a poor mans Half Dome. At this point the forest is still hot, full of bugs (mosquitoes unlike anywhere I've ever been....and that's including Alaska) and mostly made of scrub oak.


Tumbling Water

In this photo I tried to show the clear green water above, the bands of color in the rock, and then eventual tumbling whitewater.

Visiting Goblin Valley and Canyonlands soon.....will do better to post soon after the trip.

05 August 2010

Some Photos From The Coast

Thought I would share some photos from a recent trip to the Oregon Coast....didn't really have time to stop and take a lot of shots, but just a few, and a bit unique for me so far as they are almost all of wildlife.


An elk outside Veneta, OR. This was early morning and I shot a dozen or so shot in sport mode, it worked well, but with the slight black out on the display after each shot it was sometimes hard to keep pace with the elk.

Flowers near Newport.


This shows how sequences can work out great (even if they are a bit overexposed)


Pop: suddenly another harbor seal appears!

Checking out the photog in the river.

Thank You For Voting-Photo Contest Vote Winners

I want to quickly post the winners of the Oregon Wild Photo Contest Vote. Thank you to all who voted and I hope you all check in from time to time.


The Horseshoe


Proxy Falls


South Sister Pano


Marys Peak Trees


Mt. Bachelor Through The Buttercups

Obviously, expect a post if any of the photos win in the contest.

Thank you again!

01 August 2010

Checking In!


Today is the last day to vote in the Oregon Wild Photo Contest....voting closes at Midnight.

In the meantime, I have finished the bar exam and have hit the road for a solid month, so expect lots of updates with pics of Sierra Nevada forests and red rock deserts.

17 July 2010

VOTE-Oregon Wild Outdoor Photo Contest

I am entering the Oregon Wild Outdoor Photo Contest and need your help to pick the five photos to submit. Please vote in the sidebar survey, or by commenting, and vote for five please. Voting ends August 1st. Here are my candidates:



The Horseshoe




Marys Peak Trees


Mt. Hood From Marys Peak

Broken Top



Odell Lake from Eagle Rock




Clear Lake Rainstorm


Metolius Chipmunk


Watson Falls



South Sister Pano



Mt. Bachelor Thru The Buttercups

Mt. Bachelor Meadows
(And let me know if you think this is too bright, I have other exposures)



Proxy Falls Trails


Mt. Jefferson at Dee Wright

South Sister with Flower



Proxy Falls